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  "HELPFUL HINTS FOR YOUR POWERED PARAGLIDER"
  Home built pipe bender By David Singery
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CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH - SET UP
A centrifugal clutch allows the engine to run whilst the propeller remains still. This obviously has many benefits such as minimizing the probability of lines entering the spinning prop whilst inflating the glider. It also prevents damage to the leading edge of the prop when standing the spinning prop on beach sand or similar lose material. This unique system may be easily made from the inner workings from a comparable machine. These clutch systems are found on motorised scooters and numerous road working machinery such as whackers or compactors. Simply remove the inner component (A), make an outer housing to house it (B), and a shaft(C) if not present. Often the small pulley may be manufactured as part of the outer housing (D) . This system may be adapted to convert your SOLO or HIRTH 210cc engine into one with a centrifugal clutch
How does a centrifugal clutch system work??? How does a centrifugal clutch system work? The entire shaft and inner clutch system is attached to the spinning crank. The small pulley and hence the outer casing is thus stationary as the break pads are detached or not making contact with the outer casing.As soon as the RPM increases, the spinning motion of the centrifugal and centripetal forces create a net resultant vector that throws the spring loaded internal clutch system “outwards” and against the outer casing. The more the RPM increases, the more the system is forced against the casing which now causes the outer casing and hence the small pulley to rotate. Because this is attached via a belt to the big pulley, the prop begins to spin (only now when the RPM increases and not continuously as before).
Spring loaded clutch moves outwards against the outer housing. This clutch system may be attached to various parts of the engine set up. The easiest is to have it directly onto the crank, however it may be adapted to engage the large pulley as the RPM increases too. The only drawback with this type of set up is that this method works off the crank. This means there is usually very little room for the ring gear and hence an electric start may be difficult to fit. It also requires that the cam shaft may have to be extended to have the large pulley sitting further out, as the small pulley usually sits slightly outwards, due to the space taken up by the clutch on the crank. A system that works easier and that may be universally fitted to most set up’s is that, that works off the large pulley. It will however require that the prop sits slightly further outwards. This however is usually not a problem. (The drawings may be obtained from SKYTRIBE which detail how this is manufactured).

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Prop balancing.
This our our second example of how to balance your propeller and a far more sensitive method than a adjustable insert.
Home built pipe bender By David Singery
I decided to make this pipe bender after I had tried for about four weeks to borrow a 19mm and a 15.88mm pipe bender with no avail. After trawling through many used tool shops I found a 19mm bender, but the store owner wanted more money for it than I could buy a new one for! I built this one by looking at some of the other sizes that were around at the time and just made it suit my needs.
The home made pipe bender dismantled with parts laid out. Note the bearings in the small pulley. The second and third images show the completed and assembled pipe bender
The plan was to have two to have a large stationery pulley that would be orbited by a smaller pulley that was free to roll around the larger pulley. For the large pulley, I used a diameter of 200mm. I had tried to use a smaller diameter but found the bend radius to be too tight and the pipe was prone to kinking. (Remember that the smaller the inner pulley, the smaller the radius of the bend will be.) Once I used the larger diameter, the bend turned out just fine. I used machine grade aluminium for the smaller pulley and quite a poor grade for the larger pulley. That is why the smaller pulley has a better finish than the larger one. I just used some off cuts I found in a scrapyard. Aluminium is also easier to turn than steel and quite a bit lighter since the whole assembly is rather heavy anyway. Two grooves were machined into the aluminium, one to accommodate the 15,8mm pipe and the other to accommodate the 19mm pipe as these were the two sizes that I intended using. The grooves were machined so that when the pipe was placed in the groove, the groove would reach up to or just over half the pipe diameter. This is quite important because as you bend the pipe, the idea is to force the pipe into the bend and to follow the curve as you pull on the lever and not allow it to creep out the sides of the groove.
Large 200mm pulley
The smaller pulley was also machined in a similar fashion but I machined recesses for bearings on either side to allow it to rotate freely around the larger pulley. The size of this smaller pulley is not critical as it is merely planetary and orbits the larger pulley. It could even be half the size I used. It just so happened that this was the diameter of the aluminium round bar that I had found lying around in a scrapyard. I have seen some pipe benders that don't have a pulley but rather a block that is pulled or dragged over the pipe as it moves around the large pulley. I wanted less friction so as to make pulling the lever as easy as possible.
Smaller pulley without bearing recesses machined yet.
Next was to make what I call the block. This is the hub of the entire puller and allows the large pulley to be fastened to it and allow it to be clamped in a vice. It also has a clamping device so as to hold the pipe steady so that it can be bent. The way bending works is that as the smaller pulley moves around the outside of the larger pulley pulling on the clamped pipe as well as bends it. In order for the pipe to be pulled, it needs to be clamped firmly otherwise kinks will form (trust me, I found this out from experience when I tried to cut corners in my eagerness to finish the project.)
The explanation of the clamp is as follows: A is the removable clamp that is held down by the bolt (B) so as to clamp the pipe. The clamp has two radii, one 15,88mm and the other 19mm in order to clamp around the pipe.
Block showing clamp in foreground

These radii were created using a round file so don't go working to fine tolerances it’s just to hold the pipe in place. Two holes were drilled and tapped through the top so the bolt could be moved to either hole depending on which size of pipe you were bending. The image shows both pipes (D 15,8mm and E 19mm) clamped together. Two smaller holes were drilled and tapped on either side to stop the assembly from being pulled through the block whilst bending. I will explain the workings at length so those of you who understand how it works by looking at the picture, please bear with me so I can describe it to those who don't. The way it works is as follows : Depending on which size of pipe I would be bending, I would move the bolt to be tightened over that pipe. If I was going to bend the 19mm pipe, I would move the bolt to the hole above that pipe where X is so as to clamp directly above that pipe (see the last image to get a better view of this second hole). For simplicity sake and for ease of explanation, I am going to follow the image layout. Pretend that pipe E (19mm) is not there and we are going to work with D (15,88mm). Bolt B is screwed out so as to allow the pipe (D) to be placed under the clamp. The side bolts (C) are screwed in so as to act as a stop to prevent the clamp (A) pulling out whilst bending. The clamp (A) is then pushed down onto the pipe using the corresponding radius (15,88mm in this case) and the bolt (B) tightened so that it is pulled tight against the stop (F). Take care not to tighten this too much as you will crush the pipe. Bending can now take place by applying force to the arm.

The pipe being bent. Note the second hole drilled and tapped for use with the 19mm pipe
My completed frame. The only part not bent with my pipe bender was the large ring that goes around the propeller. That was bent with an all together different type of pipe bender which I will get around to documenting at some point. All other bends were with this home built bender.

By David Singery Back to Top

So you think you're smart? Try this quiz!!!
1. How long did the 100 year war last?
2. What country makes panama hats?
3. From what animal do we get cat gut?
4. In what month do the Russians celebrate the October revolution?
5. What is a camels hair brush made of?
6. The Canary islands in the pacific is named after which animal?
7. What was king George VI's first name?
8. What colour is a purple finch?
9. Where are Chinese goosberries from?

Answers

1. How long did the 100 year war last? - 116 yrs
2. What country makes panama hats? - Ecuador
3. From what animal do we get cat gut? - Sheep and horses
4. In what month do the Russians celebrate the October revolution? - November
5. What is a camels hair brush made of? - Squirrel fur
6. The Canary islands in the pacific is named after which animal? - Dogs
7. What was king George VI's first name? - Albert
8. What colour is a purple finch? - Crimson
9. Where are Chinese goosberries from? - New Zealand
How to make your own flywheel puller.

Download your free instructions here:
(.676KB .pdf)

To D.I.Y. Plans

Stripped or damaged oversized head & barrel bolt or cap screws?
HELPFUL HINTS FOR YOUR POWERED PARAGLIDER
from the e book "An Insight into Powered Paragliding" from SkyTribe

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An Insight into Powered Paragliding,
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More Hints and Tips under
Answered Questions

Subheadings
from the appendix of the PPG book

Kill Switch
Page 2 (103KB)

Extract from the PPG book by Dave

SO YOUR ENGINE IS HARD TO START??

Many ppg engines have a deco valve fitted into the head. If not you can usually machine an area and fit one or make up something that serves the same purpose. See the attached photo of an ingenious lever system that allows you to depress the dec valve without getting out the harness.

Other engines have a bleed hold half way down the barrel that joint another longitudinal hole that runs down to the exhaust outlet. To prevent this being open to the head a grub screw is in place just above where the bleed hole joins this vertical hole. (see the attached picture).

Sometimes this bleed hole becomes blocked with carbon so start by unblocking it (obviously you will have to take the head off). We normally re drill this to a few mms larger, remove the grub screw and drill this down to the exhaust port larger two and insert a larger grub screw as well.

Some people have ground a small slot in the actual barrel instead of simply drilling it larger. We DO NOT recommend this in the slightest.

Decompression Valve

The automatic or manual decompression lever.
No more having to go round and press your deco
button everytime you pull start it. Made by DAVE Syngery.

Helmet wiring diagrams
 
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